The moment the more traditional beauty brands started including mineral cosmetics in their makeup line up you knew mineral makeup was not just a fad, trend or something that will die down but is here to stay.

AC Nielsen reports that in 2005 the sales of mineral makeup in USA amounted to only $5.4 million but it jumped to $149 million in 2007 making up 5% of the total cosmetics sales. This explosion continues and is projected to keep on growing at a phenomenal rate.

I have resisted for sometime before deciding the time was now ripe to feature mineral makeup in one of my segments. Under each heading you will find the answers to everything you always wanted to know about mineral makeup.

What is mineral makeup?
Beauty legend has it that it all started in San Francisco in the 1970s amidst all the ‘peace, love and no war” banners. Mineral makeup is made of finely ground minerals such as titanium, zinc, mica, gold and magnesium, without any of the chemicals, dyes, and preservatives found in traditional makeup.

Please keep in mind traditional makeup always included minerals in their formulations. But they also include fillers, parabens, talc (a mineral,) fragrances, binders, synthetic dyes, and preservatives.

But does "natural," "mineral," and "from the earth" mean better?
Like everything mineral makeup has its fans and critics. Most allergies and intolerances to makeup is a reaction to parabens, talc, fragrances, binders, synthetic dyes, and preservatives. So logic suggests that any makeup that eliminates these should eliminate some of the related problems.

Moreover ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide have anti-inflammatory properties and are common ingredients in traditional sunscreens. Most brands have an in-built sun protection factor of at least SPF15, but I would highly recommend that you still use a traditional sun screen at all times.

Mineral makeup is also generally non-comedogenic, does not clog pores, and should not aggravate an acne condition or cause a flare-up as easily as some traditional makeups can.

So is all Mineral Makeup the same?
‘Mineral’ has become the new ‘Natural’ in marketing strategies for cosmetics. There are no standards or guidelines for labeling “mineral” products. A "mineral makeup" may be all mineral, part mineral - or contain less than 1% mineral as part of the finished formula. Using this logic, practically all makeup could be considered mineral.

The onus sadly always falls onto the consumer, so reading ingredients list is the only way to find out.

Recently there have been concerns about the ingredient bismuth oxychloride in mineral cosmetics (it is known in some cases to be a potential skin irritant.) The issue of irritation has only arisen in the past couple of years with the onslaught of a lot of inferior quality mineral cosmetics flooding the market.

Here I explain what bismuth oxychloride is and why it is used. I want to arm you with the bare facts so you can make the decision when buying your makeup.

What is bismuth oxychloride?
Bismuth oxychloride is a byproduct from the processing of lead and copper. It is an inorganic white pigment, and usually comes in two forms: diamond and pearl finishes. The diamond is shimmery and the pearl is more matte. Its chemical formula is BiOCl.

Is it safe?
Bismuth oxychloride is a product that has been FDA (US Food and Drug Administration) approved for use in products for the face, eyes, lips and nails since 1977. It is a very common and popular ingredient in both traditional and mineral makeup. I

Why is it used?
It gives the makeup a silky feel, good slip (this means it applies well to the skin and doesn't drag or grab on the skin) and good adhesion, which helps it stay on your skin. It feels smooth and silky when rubbed between the fingers. It is often described as a lustrous crystalline powder. It also gives a visible opalescence to makeup; it's good at refracting light and helps to draw attention away from, and camouflage, fine lines, wrinkles and minor discolorations.

So should you buy makeup that contains bismuth oxychloride?
The choice is absolutely yours but with everything you use on your skin you should ALWAYS PATCH TEST. There have been NO CONCLUSIVE tests to prove that bismuth oxychloride is the primary cause of skin irritation.

How to apply mineral powder foundation?
You will need:
• A full brush like a powder brush or a Kabuki Brush
• Mineral Powder Foundation
1. Prep face with moisturiser and primer
2. Face must be dry to touch regardless of what foundation you are using
3. With the lid closed give the powder foundation a good but gentle shake
4. Tap gently on a hard surface and open the lid
5. Use product from the inside of the cap, this way you will only use a little product at a time and won’t have powder flying everywhere
6. Use brush and swirl around the cap, tap excess and apply to face.
7. Dot forehead, cheeks, nose and chin and swirl gently , if you need more follow steps 3-5 again
8. if you need to cover spots etc use a small stiff bush and apply a slightly heavier application to these areas, once done finish with a swirl of the large powder brush

My verdict:
It takes a few seconds to master mineral makeup application (notably the complexion products) but once it is done you will never want anything else on your skin BUT keep in mind - Even when beauty comes from the earth, it's still a case of beauty buyer beware.

My choice picks – I have selected these brands because they only produce mineral makeup rather than deciding to include a line in an existing traditional cosmetic range. They have an amazing colour palette for all skin tones (yes from light to very dark) and have a great range of colour cosmetics to rival traditional cosmetics.

Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics
Introduced in 1996
Stockist: 1800 625 387, www.youngbloodmineralcosmetics.com.au
Started by medical aesthetician, Pauline Youngblood Soli, this brand not only looks good but provides results. I like just about everything in this well thought out range. Certainly a Wow, Wow, Wow! Each product is well designed and excellently packaged. The makeup is beautiful to apply and lasts well. Women who have tried have just waxed lyrical about the quality and how fresh they look. The Mineral Primer is a must have, excellent as a base for mineral makeup. There are simply too many favourites, the foundations and eyeshadows are excellent, so is the Mineral Radiance pressed powders. The Ultimate Foundation Brush is one of the best on the market. Go buy!

Colores Pure Mineral Colour
Introduced in 2003
Stockist: 08 83423700, www.colores.com.au,
Does NOT contain Bismuth Oxychloride
The brainchild of Antonietta Bergamin, this South Australian company is one to watch. Colores has an extensive range of highly pigmented colour and complexion products that give a lot of bang for your buck. I also like the range of complexion products for all skin types from fairest to the darkest (if you cannot find a colour to match your skin tone it can be customised.) Other unique products are the Mini Tote & Brush Set (petite but very functional and The Gloss Pot (blend your own lip colour using the mineral powders) The Brush Bath (go buy! This wholly vegetable based cleanser is excellent for your brushes) and the Mini Lipsticks.

Eles Mineral Makeup
Introduced in 2007
Stockist: 1800 069 116, www.elescosmetics.com.au
Does NOT contain Bismuth Oxychloride or Mica
Eles Mineral Makeup is another Australian brand launched in 2007. Liane Scior, the Eles’s creator wanted a brand that not only looked good but had great natural benefits. She succeeded in producing a sleek and effective range (love the packaging!) My hot picks have to be the Mineral Sheer Tint and Liquid Powder Foundation (a dream to use,) the excellent range of pressed eye shadows, great compact foundations and powders.

bareMinerals
Introduced in 1976
Stockist: www.spauniverse.com.au , Myer/David Jones
The grand dame of Mineral Makeup, this is the brand that started it all and after 30 odd years it is still leading the industry on all things cosmetics and minerals. The foundations are pure bliss - every colour under the sun is available. It gives the most seamless application with great long lasting results. If you want a great ‘bare’ faced look this is the brand to try. The ingredients are of the highest quality and with over 30 years of research and expertise at discovering the most pristine minerals this brand speaks for itself. In USA bareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation carries the Skin Cancer Foundation Seal of recommendation.

GloMinerals
Introduced in 2002
Stockist: 1800 66 44 55, www.glostore.com.au
A clinical makeup system uniquely formulated for skin care professionals and their clients. Since 2002 the brand still keeping its feet planted in the professional suites has leaped into the more trend conscious beauty domain. The range has just about everything you need to give yourself a fresh, radiant face. Besides the foundations my favourites are gloMist Hydration Mist, gloShimmer Brick, gloSmoky eye kit and gloEye Maven kit.

Jane Iredale – The Skin Care Makeup
Introduced in 1994
Stockist: 1300 850 008, www.margifox.com.au
Does NOT contain Bismuth Oxychloride
Before Jane formed her makeup range in 1994, she was working as a casting director and producer in film, television and theatre. Among many others she worked with Francis Ford Coppola on the Outsiders and Steven Spielberg on The Color Purple. Her constant dealings with makeup artistes and stars made her delve into the world of cosmetics creating a results driven range that is easy to use. After 15 years her range is still delivering great products and innovations. The must buys are Liquid Minerals and Dream Tint foundations, Sunbeam bronzer, Pommisst hydration spray, the 3in1 eyeshadows and the must have Dot the I Makeup Remover Swabs.

Mineral Fusion
Introduced in 2006
Stockist: David Jones, www.mineralfusion.com.au
Mineral Fusion formulations are pharmaceutical grade and are infused with anti-oxidant white tea, pomegranate and red tea. The philosophy is to create eco-friendly products using sustainable technologies. Mineral Fusion produces an extensive range that caters for every individual’s makeup needs. My top pick has to be the Fresh Face Starter Kit, all you need to have the perfect base, The Sheer Tint Foundation (need I say more) and the very portable and easy to use Loose Powder Foundation – just perfect!